Vol. 13 — The Art of the Cartwheel

|Francesco Pimpinicchio

The SoHo Takeover

New York does not give you a crown. It gives you a corner. Then it watches to see if you can keep it.
From March 27 to 29, 2026, Betsey Johnson took 131 Greene Street in SoHo and turned it into a living argument for why fashion still needs a body. The Art of Betsey was not a polite pop up. It was an immersive playground. A fashion fantasy. A reminder that retail
is not dead. It is just bored.
What stayed with me most was not the spectacle. It was the line.
Betsey said she missed the magic of the dressing room. She missed girls trying things on in person. Because that is where the art actually happens. A garment is not fully real until it moves on someone who is deciding who they are.
That idea is the whole point. Clothing is not content. Clothing is contact.


The Unemployable Years

Before she was a symbol, she was a problem.
In the 1960s and 1970s, Seventh Avenue did not know what to do with her instincts.
While the industry chased a narrow idea of elegance, Betsey was designing with vinyl and shower curtains. She called herself unemployable because no corporate house wanted to let her be that free.
But unemployable is often just another word for uncontainable.
She found her room at Paraphernalia. Not a safe room. A charged room. A place where downtown style was being invented in real time.
This is where the Silver Factory glamour enters. Not as nostalgia, but as a method. The idea that you can become an icon without permission. The idea that image is not decoration. It is authorship.
Betsey became a visual architect for a certain kind of New York creature. The kind that moves like music. The kind that makes the street feel like a stage.


The 1978 Rebirth


Then the industry tried to do what it always does. It tried to outgrow her.
When her fans grew up in the 1970s, the world shifted. Taste got quieter. Earth tones.
Annie Hall restraint. The message was clear. Fun is childish. Color is unserious.
Betsey did not disappear. She pivoted.
In 1978 she partnered with Chantal Bacon and started again from almost nothing. A basement. A small team. A stubborn belief.
Pink and black Lycra when everyone else was trying to look effortless.
That is the lesson I keep thinking about. She built an empire by being too much for everyone else.
Too much is often the exact amount required to survive.


The Blueprint for 2026


This is why her recent takeover did not feel like a museum. It felt like a reset.
In 2026, we still need the joy of the dress. Not as escapism. As energy. As resistance to the flattening.
Betsey reminds you that style is not a mood board. It is a decision you make in public.
And that cartwheel is not just a gimmick. It is a philosophy.
It says: I am still here. I am still moving. I am still making the room adjust.
I relate to her more than I expected.
It was hard for her to find someone who believed in what she was doing. It was hard to find a company willing to hire her. She kept going anyway. She hustled for the thing she could see before the industry could.
That is a familiar feeling when you are building a brand that does not fit the template.
I also had the chance to work on a project for her. Before I put any of my thoughts into what I was developing, I did the homework. I listened. I read her book. I went through interviews and podcasts because I wanted to understand her point of view from the inside.
And the more I learned, the more I understood the real blueprint.
She had a clear view and she never changed to please anybody.
She is bold as fuck. Crazy. Unique.
Not chaotic for attention. Consistent in her refusal.
That is what I relate to. Because I believe in what I am building too. I believe in the language I developed. I do not want to sand down the edges to make it easier for the room.
Betsey is a force of nature. The cartwheel is just the signature.
That is also how I think about my bags. They are meant to be experienced, not just worn. They are tools for identity. Ethical armor with a pulse.


The Friday Five


1. Soundtrack: Blondie - Call Me 
2. The Spot: Greene Street, SoHo. The sidewalk as runway. 
3. The Listen: Betsey : A Memoir
4. Thought: The art is not the garment. The art is the moment someone becomes
themselves inside it. 
5. Piece: 140E Tube Cross Body. Heritage Red. 

 

Carry the revolution. 

Francesco Pimpinicchio

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